ࡱ>  hbjbj $oo`sssss!!!!"$++"+"+"+"+"###b+d+d+d+d+d+d+,O/>d+s#### #d+.#ss+"+"y+.#.#.##s+"s+"b+.##b+.#.#ss.#H@;!#.#b++0+.#/.#/.#.#.#sF+###d!! 9:   1. Ok, hi, welcome to Homewreckery: Electrifying the Thread Out of Clothing. Before I start proper I want to thank a few people, so bear with me. 2. Thank you to Jeff Kantarek, 3. Jordan Bunker, 4. Joshua Krueger, 5. and John Stoner. These four folks are all indispensable collaborators three of them helped me figure out the electronics of my work and taught me loads, and two of them allowed me to show their own projects and process and obstacles. 6. A quick intro so you know what you're getting into: 7. In case you don't know from the talk listings, my name is Eli Skipp. I'm a member of Chicago's hackerspace, 8. Pumping Station: One. It's thanks to the endlessly intelligent people at PS: One that I got started with electronics at all. 9. Aside from that I'm an art/design/writing student 10. and I've been making my own garments and sewing for about eight years now, 11. And embroidering like crazy for about four years. Those previous interests came together with what this talk is about because, like many in this scene, I found myself surrounded by a sudden surplus of electrical engineers. 12. As a note, sometimes I talk really fast so if that starts to happen, someone give me like, a time out hand signal 13. And Ill slooooowwww dooooooowwwn. Yeah, I made slides for that. 14. This talk won't cover anything terribly advanced -- I might be kind of an old hat at sewing and fibers and all, but I'm definitely new to shoving my crafts full of electricity. 15. Thus, it's going to cover a whole bunch of easy and awesome projects, 16. most of which are all pretty endlessly applicable or customizable. More importantly you'll hopefully get an idea of how to build similar things yourself or at least be inspired somehow some way. Ill begin by going over some components I think you should always have around, and then show you some projects that were done using those components. Wish me luck! 17. And onward to serious business! 18. Until this new generation of hackers and inventors and creators and whatever the hell else you want to call people like us, clothing has been pretty static. Sure, the fabrics have changed. We've put plastic into what used to be organic. We've invented ways to make everything stretch. Skirts have gotten shorter and pants have gotten baggier and tighter and on and on, but for the most part they've existed only to cover up our nakedness and protect us from the elements and all. Nowadays it's possible for your clothing to serve any manner of purpose. 19. You can gauge your breathing to enhance your yoga practice. 20. You can play pong on your partners stomach. 21. You can force yourself to smile, if that's your gig. 22. And by all means, you can build all this for yourself. 23. First things first, here are some components which I have found to be the most useful. I try to keep them around: 24. 1. Conductive thread. You can get this stuff from a whole bunch of places on big spools and in two different thicknesses, 117/17 ply, which is about the thickness of regular sewing thread, and 234/34 ply which is about the thickness of embroidery thread. It's made from braided filaments of various conductive metals like silver or copper or tin, and cotton or polyester thread. It's usually uninsulated and it should be noted that there is about 1 ohm of resistance per inch or maybe a little more. 117/17 ply oddly seems to be much more resistant than the thicker 234/34 ply, so use the thicker stuff when possible. 25. If you want to make your own, instructables has a tutorial! For this web address and any others that come up, if you dont get the chance to write them down and would like any of them Ill give out my e-mail and twitter at the end of the talk, so just ask and Ill happily forward them. 26. 2. Conductive fabric. I get mine from lessemf.com and I'm really not sure where else to. They ship internationally! They carry a wide selection of fabrics made from different metals and different weaves, and with different levels of resistance. Some are stretchy. Some of them can be soldered to an some of them can't. Fun fact: cover your cell phone in this stuff and lose signal! It's used mostly for shielding. 27. My favorite type so far is copper polyester taffeta. It's comparatively cheap especially considering how wide the bolt is, it can be soldered to, it's thin and flexible and very like non-conductive taffeta, and has a very low resistance per square inch of about 0.05 ohms. Conductive fabric is made in much the same was as conductive thread, but again, 28. instructables has a tutorial if you feel like making your own! http://www.instructables.com/id/S0GV6QAFABRWUWO. 29. 3. LEDs. Okay, they're not actually totally necessary, but I use them a lot because I like blinky things. They're adorable and bright and fun and decently cheap and very very VERY easy to use. And lets face it, theyre used everywhere in every project so they might as well be mentioned. 30. 4. Conductive glue. This stuff is a lifesaver in the event of stubborn or unravelling thread, or to be sure a circuit is completed. You can even use it to make your own conductive thread or fabric by painting over the thread or spatula-ing it onto a piece of regular fabric. By all means you can make a whole bunch of stuff conductive with this, although conductive paint might be your better option if you're really looking to do that. Anywho, it's made of powdered metal and some sort of binder or glue just mixed up together. 31. Instructables (who once again have a great how-to for this) recommends powdered carbon graphite and liquid tape. http://www.instructables.com/id/make-conductive-glue-and-glue-a-circuit. 32. 5. Lilypads and associated components. These things had to be mentioned -- you didn't think you'd get through a fibers and electronics talk without coming across Lilypad Arduinos did you? Impossible! 33. This is a picture of one I used in a project I'll be showing later. Look at the mess I've made! Oh gosh! Lilypads were developed by Leah Buechley specifically for conductive threads and soft circuits. It's ringed by wee little holes to sew through which are conductive all the way around and through and can be programmed with regular arduino programming software -- because it's, you know, just a more adorable and more sewable arduino. Yes! 34. There are some great associated components, like ridiculously tiny switches 35. and sewable battery packs. And also vibration pads and accelerometers and etc. etc. etc. 36. Heres an address for a great Lilypad components circuit layout tool that might come in handy. 37. I made two projects in the past month and a half specifically to show you fine folks, and also because they're super fun to build, so this is the part of the talk where I talk about what I've made. Here we go! 38. So, here's the first project I finished this past month. It's actually been featured on Hack-a-Day and on Makezine.com and DIYdaily.com and, like, ten other places, which was a real honor, especially considering how basic it is. I call it a fabric light bright but I'll seriously build one and send one (or send the components for building it) to whoever manages to come up with a more clever name than me that theyre willing to let me use. I'm desperate for one. In a way, it's a lot like a fabric bread-board, although there are definitely some limitations there. Talking about this is really more like talking about how to use sewing machines with conductive thread, at times though. 39. Just as a quick note, if youre really looking for a not-homemade fiber perf-board, plugandwear.com recently added one to their store. They have a lot of great stuff there actually. 40. Aaaand Id like to tell you about the way I would have preferred to do it. This is something weve started working on a little bit but, given that I do not have 2300$ lying around its been a bit difficult. The Husqvarna sewing machine company makes embroidery machines in their Viking line of machines. These things will accept a USB key of images and will, for the most part, sew any image for you that youd like. It comes with special software specifically for it! The goal is to make printed circuit boards out of conductive thread, which should be pretty easy, really. Once its finally all figured out Ill do some writing on it but for now its just a concept that you should keep in mind if you have access to a machine like this. If any of you manage to do it, LET ME KNOW. Yes! 41. Anywho, the reason I made my fabric light bright in the first place is so that I wouldn't have to do wiring for every little LED image or word I wanted to fleetingly display. As youll find out from my next project, Ive had some issues with individually addressed LEDs. If you're more ambitious than me you could easily hook up other components in an equally non-permanent way. The main goal of this was to get away from the staticness and permanence of most soft circuits. Luckily, This is so criminally easy you could make it in an hour. 42. Mine took a while because I hand embroidered it. Don't make my mistake. The only possible advantage to hand embroidering is that you could make pretty conductive pictures of something. 43. Leaves or birds or whatevs. You pick! 44. Otherwise use a sewing machine if you have one and save yourself a good few hours of tedious work. I'm going to give you guys a basic idea of how to make it, I'll try to be quick. 45. To build it all you have to do is sew a continuous line of conductive thread using the zig zag stich up and down a length of fabric, each line about 1/4" to 1/2" apart (thats about 0.65 cm to 1.25 cm for all you metric folks). 46. Youll notice that you either need a special needle to sew with the thicker ply conductive thread or if youve got that, a machine thatll hold the spool. Do you not have either of those? Then bobbin work is the stuff for you! Bobbin work works for most kinds of decorative thread. Wind a bobbin by hand with your decorative thread and thread it through your sewing machine, using regular thread on top. Youre essentially sewing upside down, and it works pretty brilliantly. Watch your tension though. The URL up there gives a more detailed description. 47. Once youve got your lines sewn, sew two strips of conductive fabric down the top and bottom of the lines. This ensures an even voltage spread with minimal resistance added. 48. Cut a piece of regular fabric and a piece of conductive fabric to the same size and sandwich your regular fabric between your conductive thread fabric and your conductive fabric. At this point it should be noted that your conductive thread is acting as your positive and your conductive fabric is acting as your ground, which is why that piece of regular fabric is in the middle. Make sure your conductive thread never touches your conductive fabric or youll short it! AGH! 49. Grab three AA batteries and put them into a three-battery battery pack with long-ish leads. 50. Attach your positive lead to your conductive thread by bending it about a stitch, so that you have a decent connection that isnt at all permanent, 51. and then attach your ground lead to your conductive fabric by making a little hole and poking your lead through and bending it around that hole in a similar fashion. 52. Stick some LEDs through, making sure the ground lead of the LED goes through the non-conductive thread part of your fabric and that the positive lead of your LED touches your conductive thread. 53. I have a method for making this easier and less messy in which I curl the positive side of my LED with needle nosed pliers so it can sit flat on the conductive thread and sharpen the ground lead with snippers so it can poke through with less hassl.e 54. Does it light up? Huzzah! Thats a picture of when I realized this project might actually work, it was way exciting! 55. At this point you can Solder the ground lead from your battery pack to the copper polyester and go nuts. Just unbend your positive lead and pull it out to make sure its turned off. Easy, right? 56. If my explanation was super vague, you can find a more in-depth and step by step PDF at the URL on this slide: http://www.pumpingstationone.org/blog/2009/12/want-to-build-a-fabric-light-bright.html or you can google my name and itll come up somewhere eventually I think. 57. You can make this more functional by sewing a piece of foam batting behind the conductive fabric and then attaching it to things like bags and coats, 58. and mine also has a tiny switch in it so that I don't have to keep looping and unlooping the positive battery lead around a stitch to turn it on and off, but both of these extra steps are way optional. 59. The other project I made was a pain in my butt for weeks. It doesnt have a name but I like to call it The reason I should by all means hate conductive thread. I made a new jacket from an old one 60. and embroidered PS:One's original logo which was made by Nathan Witt on the back and the right arm. 61. I thought that was plenty of work and settled back to enjoy wearing it until a friend convinced me to put LEDs in it. 62. Then another convinced me to have it change patterns using a Lilypad. 63. Then another said to add flex sensors to control the pattern changes. And thus did it get epically complicated (to me, anyway). 64. I spent a day curling 96 LEDs so they could be sewn down, only to realize that it's a real problem I'd have being sure which lead was ground now. Dont make this mistake. Curl one side in a different way than the other if youre using this method. I now make my ground side square and my positive side circular, which is what Leah Buechley does. 65. But Because I was that smart the first time around, Jordan made me a nifty thing to tell me which side was which! All my problems were solved! 66. OR NOT! Of course upon beginning to attach conductive thread to the ground bits, I came to realize just how complicated of a circuit this would be. 67. How the Hell could this work without touching positive and ground and avoiding lots of resistance? 68. DOES NOT WORK! I used three layers of fabric to complete it which was a crapshoot even then because there was still a possibility of wires crossing and shorting the circuit. Checking it with a multimeter, trying to program the thing, giving it some juice, all of that failed to make more than one LED light up. 69. So I tore it all up and tried again, hoping it was a resistance problem. Alas, as it turns out, individually stitching and wiring 96 LEDs is a little over my head, and our old logo is goddamn annoying to figure out a circuit pattern for. 70. Please keep in mind that I had to do this TWICE! This jacket is the devil. 71. I was devastated. Luckily, Jordan took pity in me and helped me figure out a newer, simpler, and more analog method. 72. In the end I used only twenty LEDs and a pretty little circuit pattern that looks like this: 73. And Jeff built me a pretty little circuit board for my flex sensors and all what looked like this: 74. I sewed in some 117/17 ply conductive thread and the conductivity was terrible, so I had to rip that out again, and sewed the circuit with 234/34 ply (which is what the pictures of), and the connectivity was pretty damn decent. Again, I definitely recommend always using 234/34 ply when possible because it has lower resistance. Add in some fray-lock and a whole bunch of conductive glue and 75. b00m it lights up! 76. The flex sensors were a little trickier. The beauty of flex sensors (or flex resistors, as they're called) is that their resistance changes as you bend them, which can be used to control things! One way lowers it, the other direction raises it. 77. This is where Jeffs pretty circuit board comes in! It's made of perf boar, two transistors, four resistors, and a bunch of solder. 78. I sewed in the flex sensors near the crooks of both elbows after Jeff attached some long long wires to them 79. and then sewed a piece of fabric over them because, interestingly enough, your skin will short flex sensors. Criminy, I know! 80. After which the long wires got sewn down and assigned to their respective places on the circuit board, which was sewn into a pouch along with the two-AA battery pack that powers it. One of the flex sensors turned out to be defective so Jeff replaced it with a resistor and finagled it so that just one flex resistor would make it work and made it slightly less sensitive. 81. BAM! Cute Jacket! 82. The next projects I'd like to talk about aren't my own, which means we're into the good stuff! These upcoming folks are way more ambitious than I've been yet. So here we go: 83. Jeff Kantarek was a professional electronics engineer until he became ever so happily unemployed. Now he mostly builds things with a startup company and hangs around the space helping everyone else (yours truly included) figure out what they were doing wrong with their electronics projects. 84. Jeff Kantarek is building a bio-feedback shirt! Its still currently in progress, but Id like to update you on how its going so far. 85. The premise of this project is to provide bio-feedback in order to improve balance and thus accelerate recovery of people with balance-related issues, such as inner ear problems. It uses a lillypad, an accelerometer, vibration boards, and LiPo battery, plus a bunch of conductive threa. 86. He ran into trouble with the resistance of the conductive thread and the shaky connections and the fraying of the thicker ply thread. He simply couldn't get a good connection with the individual pads. Jeff had planned on making all connections prior to sewing it down, which created messes and tangles and frustrations, as you can see in the picture. 87. He was forced to switch to 117/17 ply and hope the resistance didn't add up and cripple performance, and he also drew up a new shirt and sewed in the conductive thread proper, and less messily, with fabric sewn over to allow overlapping. Ground connections were completed and the accelerometer was attached to the analog inputs on the main lilypad board and a small pocket was added for the battery and the vibration pads were sewn on and attached to their positive leads. 88. The vibration pads are sewn on the inside of the shirt for direct skin contact and runs around the waist. When ones balance goes off center, these vibration pads buzz and let you know, until you find yourself properly upright again. 89. In the end though, Jeff came to realize that a shirt was perhaps not the best things to mount this project on and moved on to a chest/waist strap. Hes still currently working on this, his prototype is mostly complete but tends to remove itself from soft-circuits. His second prototype however will include stretchy conductive fabric. Check out www.affectiveengineering.com if youd like to follow his progress. Hes got other really interesting projects hes working on on there as well, including a project called Warm Strings which he is building with Jasna Delic. Warm Strings is a scarf with a lilypad, speaker, and touch pads attached so that one can play it like a violin. I wish it were done so I could show you. Moving on! 90. He also made this adorable thing out of a stuffed animal I made, but I dont know much about it except that the backpack holds the batteries and a piece of acrylic, two red LEDs, and two spinny things with resistor wings on them what spin in tiny circles, and that there is a ball of hot glue and LEDs in the belly what makes his buttons turn yellow when you press the rest toggle on his leg. Ill have it afterwards if anyone feels like playing with it. 91. This next project was made by John Stoner, 92. an incorrigible member of the cycling community in Chicago who 93. also happens to be a damn decent programmer. 94. He created "Boogie Pants! (pardon the picture quality it was difficult to take a better one as Johns dedicated belly dancer currently has posession of the actual garment) 95. "Boogie Pants" is actually quite different from the rest of the projects I'm mentioning on here, and is less an example of electrifying clothing and more an example of the awesome relationships that technology and fibers can have, and is more inclusive of the programming crowd here. While "Boogie Pants" incorporates none of the indispensable components I mentioned in the beginning of this talk (although it could if one were inclined to get fancy), it very much deserves mentioning. "Boogie Pants" was made using an apron-like garment 96. and a wii-mote, not to mention a pretty good knowledge of java and wii-mote hacking. 97. I can't explain any of that, but luckily John can. John is working on a document on how to built it, so keep your eyes peeled! 98. So what does "Boogie Pants" do? John says to think of them like a synthesizer keyboard. Different media events are assigned to different controls, for example a sample of tone. 99. Even better? It's controlled by dancing! John is working with belly dancers right now to make a good example video 100. (it's an on-going project!) 101. of how sharp movements can create sharp sounds, 102. how back and forth movements create regular scales, 103. and how pelvic circles and similar movements can create circular scales, and on and on. NOTE: Pure Data is back-end boogiepants is front-end 104. In John's words, "It is a new category of thing to use videogame technology and fibers together for a musical performance in a way that enhances the interaction between the performer and the audience. So, imagine a belly dancer on a stage, with a garment that integrates wireless motion sensors (the Wii remote and Nunchuk). There is an image of an avatar projected on a screen behind her. As she dances, the avatar moves with her body, interacting with objects on the screen, causing 'media events'--playing samples or scales, various different things. You could control lots of kinds of things with it. As she pushes buttons on the sensors, sets of objects swap in and out. It's a fully open sourced project. The code is open-source and the garment designs will be too. Collaborators are welcome: coders, dancers, DJs, and 3D modelers all have a place in boogiepants." 105. NOTE: All boogiepants instruments require an OSC address, which defines where their signals go when they are played. Different instruments types send different signals. All boogiepants signals are single floating point numbers. " 106. For the future of the project he wants to change a few things: 107. 1. Currently it's based on tilt-sensing, on both the core of the body and the pelvis. In the future I want full-motion sensors, and more of them, controlling more music. Imagine going to see Daft Punk or someone like that, and instead of standing behind a big console and working with the controls of a conventional DJ rig, they came out and danced, and controlled full-body avatars projected on stage behind them, and controlled the music that way. Imagine, instead of video (or in addition to it) on the Jumbotrons at stadium shows, full-body avatars moving with the performers, controlling the music. Not just with their pelvises, but with their entire bodies. 108. 2. Easier programming and extensibility of visual effects. So, right now there are four different kinds of controls in boogiepants, four 'instruments.' They are cool, but they have limited visual appeal and dynamicism. Imagine if you had an easy way to add new kinds of visual effects or musical events to boogiepants. Imagine giving that power directly to the artist, with tools that are easy to use. 109. Crazy cool and crazy adorable! You can find out more about this project from http://boogiepants.typepad.com. 110. And that about wraps it up for everything I wanted to talk about. I guess in conclusion, awesome things come from putting electronics and clothing together, even if all you want to do is make your clothes blinky and shiny. Most of these projects came with problems for their creators that had to be worked out, but the learning experience intrinsic therein is endlessly valuable and generally worth it in the end. Hacking clothing like this will always be a valuable thing, because, in the words of my first fashion teacher, Clothing designers will never be out of demand, everyone wears clothes. Why not make the ones we have more functional and more interesting? Ill take questions now, but when Im done, go build your own stuff and then tell me all about it, or if youve done so already I definitely want to know! 111. Heres my e-mail and my twitter. And Ill totally take suggestions and criticism, but be nice, please! 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